Terry Bair and his amazing DeWalt Scrollsaw
Price range from $100 to $1000 for a saw. Start with simple projects like refrigerator magnets to build experience. The next most critical consideration is the blade. Terry likes Olsen blades precision ground so it is tempered first then ground; these blades are aggressive in size 5, 7, and 9. After that he likes a mock 3. The lower the number on the blade, the more teeth per inch. Some blades are reverse tooth that also cut on the bottom to prevent tearout.
tch the blade to the work, so for ¾ “ wood use a more aggressive (higher number blade.) Speed also affects the quality of the cut. Terry will sand the back of the blade to make tighter turns easier while scrolling Terry sands the wood with 120 and then 220 sandpaper before he saws. Either plane the wood or turn it so the center is down and the cup is up to minimize rocking while sawing.
Thinned down white glue is used to attach the pattern, allowing some repositioning. Alternately, use contact cement, which does not allow the pattern to be repositioned. Sometimes Terry uses clear packing tape to hold down the pattern which means NO adhesive residue to clean off, and he says the tape lubricates the blade despite the glue holding tape on.
Before you saw, you must drill a 1/16” hole in every place you will cut using a drill press. Terry drills all the holes at the beginning
To set up the saw, use a square to square the blade to the table, follow saw manufacturer’s instructions. This is very important. To test, mark a piece of wood and cut it, put it back together to test for squareness. Adjust the blade tension for a happy balance between what will prevent flexing and what is so tight it breaks the blade. He pings on his blade for a sound. He select the fastest speed at which he feels gives a smooth cut. Select a starting point on the inside and work out, maintaining strong wood all around the outside. To back out of a cut, he eases off from pushing the wood in, and maintains a small amount of side pressure, and then turns the work around to back out of the cut.
Always think of the blade as cutting only on the front and not on the sides (using the blades’ kerf.) Too much force means either the blade is dull, or the speed is incorrect. Beware of stamped blades that are off-center affecting any straight cut. When they are stamped, they are stamped from one side and are off balance.
For stack cutting, Terry can cut four to six at a time, but even then only a small section of blade is used and the rest is wasted. Watch out using plywood, as it will chip out, but the plywood is durable. The solid wood, he says, if people drop the piece, it will break. He will glue his stack cutting layers with a drop of glue at the corners to keep his accuracy. Keep the Table top clean-he uses an old paint brush. Also keep offcuts off the table, and keep the table top waxed. He wears a dust mask.
Terry’s saw is mounted on rollers and he adjusted his to that the table slants toward the front, which give him a better view. Give yourself good lighting. Also he uses a vacuum to help keep things clean. Terry says this work requires a good deal of concentration, so he breaks up his work sessions. Terry has also modified his say with a remote on/off switch.
He purchases wood from Sloan Woodshop, and he buys his blades by the gross.
Wood Auction
The wood auction was lively, with Denny officiating. John reports$ 142.00 income from the wood sale.
Show and tell;
Larry Simmons: power tool box from Woodsmith TV with free plans on internet. He says the directions were very good, but must be followed closely. Finished with Danish oil
Denny Wetter: Segmented bowl with spire lid and snowman from mahogany.
Fred: lathe work unstained with spar varnish. A fireplace tool.
Terry Bair: Thank you for your service to be donated to American Legion. Walnut tool models.
Ed Columbo: burnisher with a lathe turned handle.
Andy: toolholder project on Lumber jocks. Search on Lumberjocks to find the web site. It is free to join and post.
Mike Swart: Storage device for open rafter ceilings. As one raises the device, the trays pivot, but remain flat and are secured by turnbuckels.
John Phillips: A bowl for Hong Kong Orchid tree, finished with Odie’s oil.
John Slezaks brought in photos of a mold made for a curved wall surrounding a hot tub.
All pictures by Andy DiLorenzo. Text by Andy DiLorenzo and Ed Goldberg